Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Abella Climb


Watch Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, and James Pearson gathered together this summer in Abella de la Conca (Spain) for a climbing festival organized with Edelrid & Vaude. This recently rediscovered area has amazing limestone and offers all year round climbing for all abilities.  In one week they did ten first ascents from 7b+ to 8c and bolted seven new 50m lines from 7a to 8c+. They also tried four projects (8c+/9a?) but for these, as Enzo Oddo puts it…they’ll have to come back!!
The new web site http://www.abellaclimb.com will give you more information about this crag and has online topos of the new sectors.

Este verano Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, y James Pearson han escalado en el guapísimo catalán pueblo de Abella de la Conca durante la trobadada organizada con Edelrid & Vaude . En esta zona se puede escalar todo el ano sobre una roca tipo Verdon. Dentro una semana han hecho las primeras ascensiones de 10 vias incluso dos 8c, y equipado 7 nuevas vías brutales de 50m de 7a hasta 8c+. Han probado también 4 proyectos (8c+/9a?) pero para estos como Enzo Oddo lo dice al final…hay que volver!!!
La nueva pagina web http://www.abellaclimb.com os permite buscar más información y topos para los nuevos sectores.

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!



Sunday, 11 May 2014

Abella de la Conca — new routes

Nic Durand, owner of the Eco Refugi in Abella de la Conca, has sent us details of a new sector he's been developing in the zone. The new sector is situated just below El Canyon (Page 256 in Lleida Climbs 2).


Abella de la Conca — Climbing Festival Saturday June 7th

Come along and join the fun in Abella de la Conca on Saturday June 7th!


Friday, 2 May 2014

Sant Llorenç de Montgai — Xinxetes — Two new routes

Tom Zappe has added a further two new routes to his list of impressive climbs on sector 'Xinxetes' (Pages 88-89 in Lleida Climbs 2) at Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Tom says that the rock on the lower section (common to both routes) needs careful handling at the moment, but will certainly settle down with more ascents.

The new climbs are situated just to the right of 'Levitación con Vistas' (7a+/b) and are marked as 'A' and 'B' on the following topo.



Tom Zappe on pitch one of La Ratlla/Via de Llons (7b+), Sector Xinxetes, Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Camarasa — Capricho de Vicho — New Routes

Albert Cortés and friends have equipped three very nice new climbs on sector Capricho de Vicho (Pages 48-49 in Lleida Climbs 2) situated around the pillar of 'Esbolon'.

On following topo the new routes are denoted as A, B and C.


Saturday, 12 April 2014

Camarasa — Sector Cingles de La Llum

The project 'Tuk Tuk' (Page 46 of Lleida Climbs 2) has now been red-pointed by local climber David Espinet. The previously estimated grade of 8a has been confirmed.

Araceli Segarra on 'Crackistan' (7a) Cingles de La Llum, Camarasa.

Friday, 4 April 2014

Abella de la Conca — new routes on Sector Església

Nic Durand has informed us of six new routes he has recently equipped on the excellent low-mid-grade Sector Església (Pages 246-249 in Lleida Climbs 2).

On the following topo, routes 15, 16 and 22 correspond with the same routes listed in the Lleida Climbs guidebook (second edition). The new routes are listed A-F.

 

Nic and Elle have equipped dozens of new climbs in this fantastic zone over the past couple of years, and now run a newly reformed Eco-Refugi in the beautifully situated village.

Nic Durand on Naropa (6c+), Sector Església

Monday, 3 March 2014

Vilanova de Meià — new multi-pitch route

David Tarragó has sent us details about a new multi-pitch climb on Roca dels Arcs in Vilanova de Meià, equipped by himself and Paula Revoil last year.
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!

The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Camarasa — new sector

A new sector has just been developed in Camarasa: Sector Dexter.
The sector is located between Capricho del Vicho (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 48-49) and Fashion (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 60-61) on the higher level cliffs.

This is not a big sector (15 routes/maximum 22m) but the rock is excellent and the climbing superb.

All routes equipped by Albert Cortés and Pete O'Donovan during January/February 2014. Material donated by Lleida Climbs.



Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Abella de la Conca — Eco Refugi officially opens on March 1st

Abella de la Conca is one of the most stunningly situated villages in the whole of Catalunya and from March 1st visitors will be able to enjoy this unique and peaceful location to the full by staying in the new, spendidly situated eco-refugi.

Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.

During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.

Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.

Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at abellaclimb@gmail.com


Nic climbing Illian Tu Vas Tomber (6c) in Abella de la Conca

Ella enjoying Pre-Skool (V) in Abella de la Conca

The incredible arches of sector El Forat dels Lladres in
Abella de la Conca— home to some of the zone's hardest routes.









Monday, 25 November 2013

Lleida Climbs 2nd Edition!


Stop press: we are pleased to announce the release of the second edition of Lleida Climbs!
The second edition features 424 pages — 88 more than the first book— and lists almost 50% more routes. Many of these are situated on newly developed sectors in zones such as Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer and Abella de la Conca.
We would like to point out that proceeds from the first guidebook — both from advertising revenue and sales of the book itself — have played an important role in financing development of many of the new sectors, and would like to extend our sincere thanks to all our sponsors and customers.

Lleida Climbs, 2a. edició !!
Últimes notícies: tenim el plaer d'anunciar-vos que acaba de sortir a la venda la segona edició de la guia Lleida Climbs !
Aquesta segona edició, té 424 pàgines - 88 més que l'anterior - i inclou almenys un 50% més de vies. Moltes d'aquestes se situen en sectors totalment nous en zones com Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer i Abella de la Conca.
Voldriem destacar que gràcies als guanys de la primera edició - ja sigui per la publicitat inserida o a les vendes de la guia - hem pogut finançar l'equipament de molts dels nous sectors que us oferim, i voldriem donar les gràcies i el més sincer agraïment als nostres sponsors i compradors de la nostra guia.
 
Lleida Climbs, 2a. edición !!
Últimas noticias: tenemos el placer de anunciaros que acaba de salir a la venta la segunda edición de la guía Lleida Climbs !
Esta segunda edición, tiene 424 páginas - 88 más que la anterior - e incluye al menos un 50% más de vías. Muchas de estas se sitúan en sectores totalmente nuevos en zonas como Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer y Abella de la Conca.
Quisiéramos destacar que gracias a las ganancias de la primera edición - ya sea por la publicidad o por las ventas de la guía - hemos podido financiar el equipamiento de muchos de los nuevos sectores que os ofrecemos, y quisiéramos dar las gracias y nuestro más sincero agradecimiento a los spónsores y a los compradores de nuestra guía.