Thursday, 17 October 2019

Lleida Climbs 3 now available!!!

The third edition of our Lleida Climbs guidebook is now available to for purchase both in Spain and the UK. The new guide is not just a minor update, it is packed full of new sectors and new routes!

Monday, 18 February 2019

Fígols - Sector Xapat: new approach info

New access restrictions affect the approach to Sector Xapat. In the current edition of Lleida Climbs we stated that those with 4x4 vehicles could drive all the way up the 'Camí de Narieda' track, from the L-401 road right to a parking area within 5 minutes of the sector. Unfortunately a 'no access for unauthorized vehicles' signpost has recently been placed right at the start of the track. Apparently some local climbers ignore the signpost and continue to drive to the crag... of course, we cannot condone this...
For those who don't wish to flout the rules, walking up the track is long (4km!) but not particularly arduous, and quite pleasant. A reasonable pace should see you at the lower of the two crags comprising the sector (Indian Summer) in 50-55 minutes.
There have also been access changes to the alternative approach to the sector from the north: the owners of 'La Serra' farmstead, through which the approach described in Lleida Climbs goes, have erected a large metal gate barring the way and made it clear they do not wish people passing through their property. Fortunately, it is possible to re-join the original path by using the track which forks rightward from the main track some 1.3km after the village of Romanins (and 600m before the the metal gate barring access to La Serra). Follow the track past farm buildings (no signposts) to reach the streambed. Here, at a sharp right-hand bend (just before reaching the Font de Codonyes) a path marked by a large cairn cuts off to the left. Follow the the path uphill past numerous cairns to wear it levels out, and then continue until reaching the original approach at the Figols / Font de Cordonyes signpost. Turn right and follow the original approach information as described in Lleida Climbs. The approach time is slightly longer than the original way (30-35 minutes) and the lack of parking areas near the start of the farm track (their are better places several hundred metres lower down) will add a few minutes more.
Note: Since the publication of Lleida Climbs second edition in 2013, the number of climbs in Sector Xapat has almost doubled. Revised topos will be published in the next edition of Lleida Climbs (planned for Autumn 2019 release) but in the meantime info can be found in the bar 'El Portal' in Organyà.

Friday, 29 June 2018

New Routes in Camarasa

Edu Vendrell has informed us about a number of new climbs he and his friends have equipped in Camarasa.

The locations of the climbs is as follows:
1) Sector Emotion — situated between sectors La Blanca and Kuestelon la France.
2) Entre Dexter i Fashion — situated midway between sectors Dexter and Fashion.
3) FKuestelon — situated just right of the right-hand end of Kuestelon la France.
4) Les Bessones  — A prominent pinnacle situated to the right of Kuestelon la France and higher up the gully.

All routes equipped by Eduard Vendrell, Xavier Martínez and Xavier González.

Wednesday, 17 January 2018

Camarasa — Major New Sector

A major new sector has been equipped on the northern side of the gorge, approximately 200m to the left of Sector 'El Solarium' (not in Lleida Climbs).
The new sector is called 'La Cova de L'Escaleta'. It is south-facing and currently has 35 climbs, mostly in the 6a-6c range.
The sector was equipped by Pete O'Donovan, Albert Cortés and Tom Zappe, with help from Andy Gardner and the kind donation of 12 lower-off units by David Tarragó.

Sunday, 26 March 2017

'Eclipse' — Paret de l'Os

The line shown in Lleida Climbs for the route 'Eclipse' (page 97 in LC2) is actually a direct variation known as "Variant Boira". This is considerably harder than Eclipse 'original' (7a if done completely free) but is fully equipped with parabolts and rappel stations and is possible to ascend at V+ if a number of bolts are used for direct aid. Consult the topo below with pitch grades for the "Variant Boira".

Tuesday, 8 December 2015

New routes and re-equipments at Crestes de Conill - South

Several very pleasant new routes have recently been added to the left-hand side of Crestes de Conill - South (Pages 68-69 in Lleida Climbs 2). In addition, two older climbs on this part of the crag, Sputnik and Sbutnik (on which the old hangers were in very poor condition) have been re-equipped.

Tuesday, 28 April 2015

Abella de la Conca — Birthday Jam!

Nic and Ell cordially invite you too their:

Friday, 20 March 2015

Tres Ponts — route closures

UK climber Steve Crowe (a regular visitor to Catalunya) has informed us that, due to the presence of a rare species of plant, three of the classic hard routes in Tres Ponts have been 'banned' by the authorities. These are: El Segre (8a), Els Inconformistes (8a+) and L'Alternativa (8a+).
Apparently "Signs at the crag detail the plant species and location. Bolts and perma-draws still in-situ for now."
If practices employed at Camarasa a few years ago (when two complete sectors were stripped of hangers and the bolt-studs hammered into the rock because of the presence of Petrocoptis Montsicciana) it seems likely that the affected routes in Tres Ponts will soon be stripped...

Tuesday, 16 December 2014

El Diedre 8b — Climbed by Klemen Becan!

The brilliant Slovenian climber Klemen Becan has finally made the first redpoint ascent of El Diedre (8b) on sector Mur Blau in Abella de la Conca.

Although 8b is not exactly considered 'cutting edge' by today's standards, El Diedre is something rather different. This 50m pitch follows a superb line on barely vertical rock, featuring a 35m 7b+ 'warm-up' to a chain, followed by a virtually hold-less and desperately technical 15m bridging groove to the top.

Klemen originally tried the route in 2007 together with Dani Andrada, and both got very close to success, only to be thwarted by the final few tenuous moves. Others have tried since, including Britain's Steve McClure, who came agonizingly close to the on-sight in 2013.

Klemen's ascent comes the day after he climbed the 50m power and stamina fest Mind Control (8c+) in Oliana, and is all the more impressive for that!

Klemen Becan on the FFA of El Diedre (8b) in Abella de la Conca.

Klemen Becan on the FFA of El Diedre (8b) in Abella de la Conca.

Dani Andrada attempting El Diedre in 2007, showing the extremely technical nature of the moves in the final groove.

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Abella Climb

Watch Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, and James Pearson gathered together this summer in Abella de la Conca (Spain) for a climbing festival organized with Edelrid & Vaude. This recently rediscovered area has amazing limestone and offers all year round climbing for all abilities.  In one week they did ten first ascents from 7b+ to 8c and bolted seven new 50m lines from 7a to 8c+. They also tried four projects (8c+/9a?) but for these, as Enzo Oddo puts it…they’ll have to come back!!
The new web site will give you more information about this crag and has online topos of the new sectors.

Este verano Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, y James Pearson han escalado en el guapísimo catalán pueblo de Abella de la Conca durante la trobadada organizada con Edelrid & Vaude . En esta zona se puede escalar todo el ano sobre una roca tipo Verdon. Dentro una semana han hecho las primeras ascensiones de 10 vias incluso dos 8c, y equipado 7 nuevas vías brutales de 50m de 7a hasta 8c+. Han probado también 4 proyectos (8c+/9a?) pero para estos como Enzo Oddo lo dice al final…hay que volver!!!
La nueva pagina web os permite buscar más información y topos para los nuevos sectores.

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!

Sunday, 11 May 2014

Abella de la Conca — new routes

Nic, owner of the Eco Refugi in Abella de la Conca, has sent us details of a new sector he's been developing in the zone. The new sector is situated just below El Canyon (Page 256 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Abella de la Conca — Climbing Festival Saturday June 7th

Come along and join the fun in Abella de la Conca on Saturday June 7th!

Friday, 2 May 2014

Sant Llorenç de Montgai — Xinxetes — Two new routes

Tom Zappe has added a further two new routes to his list of impressive climbs on sector 'Xinxetes' (Pages 88-89 in Lleida Climbs 2) at Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Tom says that the rock on the lower section (common to both routes) needs careful handling at the moment, but will certainly settle down with more ascents.

The new climbs are situated just to the right of 'Levitación con Vistas' (7a+/b) and are marked as 'A' and 'B' on the following topo.

Tom Zappe on pitch one of La Ratlla/Via de Llons (7b+), Sector Xinxetes, Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Camarasa — Capricho de Vicho — New Routes

Albert Cortés and friends have equipped three very nice new climbs on sector Capricho de Vicho (Pages 48-49 in Lleida Climbs 2) situated around the pillar of 'Esbolon'.

On following topo the new routes are denoted as A, B and C.

Saturday, 12 April 2014

Camarasa — Sector Cingles de La Llum

The project 'Tuk Tuk' (Page 46 of Lleida Climbs 2) has now been red-pointed by local climber David Espinet. The previously estimated grade of 8a has been confirmed.

Araceli Segarra on 'Crackistan' (7a) Cingles de La Llum, Camarasa.

Friday, 4 April 2014

Abella de la Conca — new routes on Sector Església

Nic has informed us of six new routes he has recently equipped on the excellent low-mid-grade Sector Església (Pages 246-249 in Lleida Climbs 2).

On the following topo, routes 15, 16 and 22 correspond with the same routes listed in the Lleida Climbs guidebook (second edition). The new routes are listed A-F.


Nic and Elle have equipped dozens of new climbs in this fantastic zone over the past couple of years, and now run a newly reformed Eco-Refugi in the beautifully situated village.

Nic on Naropa (6c+), Sector Església

Monday, 3 March 2014

Vilanova de Meià — new multi-pitch route

David Tarragó has sent us details about a new multi-pitch climb on Roca dels Arcs in Vilanova de Meià, equipped by himself and Paula Revoil last year.
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!

The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Camarasa — new sector

A new sector has just been developed in Camarasa: Sector Dexter.
The sector is located between Capricho del Vicho (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 48-49) and Fashion (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 60-61) on the higher level cliffs.

This is not a big sector (15 routes/maximum 22m) but the rock is excellent and the climbing superb.

All routes equipped by Albert Cortés and Pete O'Donovan during January/February 2014. Material donated by Lleida Climbs.

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Abella de la Conca — Eco Refugi officially opens on March 1st

Abella de la Conca is one of the most stunningly situated villages in the whole of Catalunya and from March 1st visitors will be able to enjoy this unique and peaceful location to the full by staying in the new, spendidly situated eco-refugi.

Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.

During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.

Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.

Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at

Nic climbing Illian Tu Vas Tomber (6c) in Abella de la Conca

Ella enjoying Pre-Skool (V) in Abella de la Conca

The incredible arches of sector El Forat dels Lladres in
Abella de la Conca— home to some of the zone's hardest routes.