CLIMB IN PEACE!

A new website has recently been launched by local activists Cristian Lamiel and David Fusté, with the aim of sourcing accommodation for visiting climbers.
For more information go to www.climbinpeace.com

Lleida Climbs in France

French climbers can now buy Lleida Climbs on-line in their own country from Grimpisme.com.

Camarasa — Guifré el Pilós

Stefan Fulop on Guifré el Pilós (7b).

Camarasa — Sector Fashion (page 48 of Lleida Climbs): Guifré el Pilós is now regarded as solid 7b rather than the 7a+ grade given in the guidebook.

Sant Llorenç de Montgai — Les Xinxetes

El Cilindre and Les Xinxetes (marked in yellow).

The section of wall known as Les Xinxetes (page 67 of Lleida Climbs) at Sant Llorenç de Montgai, has recently been the scene of some very interesting developments. The first 2 routes on the wall, Un Quart de Tres and Dos Quarts de Tres were originally aid climbs, established way back in the 1980's, although the first pitch of Un Quart... was freed by the legendary Lleida climber, Miquel Àngel Casals, in the early '90's. A third (artificial) line was started up the beautiful white flow-stone streak running almost the full height of the wall, but the tragic death of its perpetrator, Antonio Fernández Maniega (commonly known as "Llons"), in a climbing accident at nearby Terradets, meant the route was never completed. By way of a memorial, the unfinished line has always been known as Via de Llons.
There matters stood until 2009, when local climber Àngel Arrabalí established the superb two-pitch route Levitación con Vistas (7a+/b), thus showing the free-climbing potential the wall offered. In 2010 another Lleida climber, Jesus Arias, broke left from the third bolt on Levitación... to create a hard single-pitch route — Quina Tensión (7b+), and later in the year Pete O'Donovan re-equipped and freed the old aid route Un Quart de Tres (7a+) to give two excellent pitches. Miquel Àngel Casals' original estimated grade for the first pitch was 6b+, but even with the rather tough grading for which the zone is infamous, 6c+ seems nearer the mark.

This was the state of play when Lleida Climbs was published in October 2010. However, it wasn't long before the German climber (and part-time resident of Sant Llorenç de Montgai), Tom Zappe, rendered the topo for Les Xinxetes utterly outdated, adding two completely new lines — Rebaixes (7a+/b) and Més Barat (7a), as well as freeing Dos Quart de Tres (7b+) and completing Via de Llons, which he renamed La Ratlla/Via de Llons (7b+).
Les Xinxetes now offers an excellent selection of free climbs — well protected but with occasional sections of questionable rock (helmets are advisable for belayers). Its south-easterly orientation is perfect for winter mornings, but the huge bulk of El Cilindre (just to the left) acts as a sun-block as the day progresses, meaning spring and summer afternoons also afford good climbing conditions. In fact the English translations of the route names Dos Quarts de Tres and Un Quart de Tres are "quarter past two" and "half past two" — the times the demarcation line between sun and shade bisects the lines of each route.

Note: This sector was partially equipped using material supplied by the Lleida Climbs/Fixe bolt-fund.

Àger — Barranc de Grillons — La Batussa (7c+/8a)

Here's a bit of news from the tail-end of last year. The talented young Lleida climber Cristian Gutiérrez has red-pointed the project Batussa (page 154 of Lleida Climbs) at Barranc de Grillons, at an estimated grade of 7c+/8a.
This ascent means that the only remaining unclimbed project on the cliff is the 'full' version (pitch 1 + pitch 2) of Long Haul (8a up to the first belay).

Cristian Gutiérrez climbing in Camarasa.

Chaxiraxi (9b) — Oliana

Chris Sharma on Pachamama (9a+).

During his spring break in Spain the young Czech climber, Adam Ondra, stunned the climbing world with some incredible on-sight ascents, two of which were at El Contrafort de Rumbau in Oliana — Blanquita (8c+) and Mind Control (8c+).
On this cliff he also established a very noteworthy first ascent  — red-pointing Chris Sharma's project, Chaxiraxi (9b) — the first route of this grade on the cliff.
There have been another coupe of ascents of Papichulo (9a+), but interestingly Chris's other 9a+ on this wall, Pachamama, remains unrepeated almost 2 years after its first ascent. Chris has always quietly hinted that despite being given the same grade, Pachamama is definitely the much sterner proposition of the two. Any takers?

Obrint el Sistema (9a+) — Santa Ana

After yet another whirlwind tour of Spanish hotspots, the young Czech climber Adam Ondra has left behind a legacy of incredible repeats (a hat-full of 8c+ onsights!) as well as several first ascents. One of these is a Dani Andrada project — a variation finish to the extension of Obrint Pas on Paret del Vent, Santa Ana (page 111 of Lleida Climbs).
Obrint Pas — FA ascent by Dani Andrada (8c), climbs a huge roof to a lower-off just before the lip; the Extension — FA ascent by Dani Andrada (8c+ — described as 'pitch 2' in Lleida Climbs) pulls round the lip of the roof to a belay a few metres higher; Obrint el Sistema (9a+) makes a wild traverse right along the lip and then climbs a stunning prow.
Other futuristic projects remain here, though you'll probably have to get on them PDQ to beat Adam!

Paret del Vent (Santa Ana); the inset picture shows Dave Graham working the Extension (8c+) prior to Dani Andrada's first ascent.

Àger — Barranc de Grillons — 'El Triangle'

 Albert Cortés, with a little help from Lluís Olóndriz and Pete O'Donovan, has developed an excellent new sub-sector about 200m left of the main part of Barranc de Grillons (pages 154-155 of Lleida Climbs). Due to its characteristic shape Albert has christened the new wall 'El Triangle'.
There are currently seven routes, from IV to 7a, and up to 45m in length. The rock is mostly perfect and the style of climbing typical 'Grillons' — vertical and technical on small edges and sharp pockets.

Unfortunately, the most right-hand route — Les Abelles Hostils —  currently houses a Bee's nest in one of its larger pockets, something which only became apparent as the weather began to warm up. It is strongly recommended that this route is avoided until the return of cooler conditions!
In common with the main sector, 'El Triangle' faces due South, and at its very best on sunny Winter days.
Approach: from the main sector continue up and left along a reasonably well-marked trail to the base of the triangular wall (10 min. from the main sector; 20 min. from the parking area).
Note: this sector has been equipped partially with material (hangers and belays) donated by the Lleida Climbs Bolt Fund.

Sant Llorenç de Montgai — Paret de l'Os

Sergio Aguilar has added an extension to Tkaes on Paret de l'Os. The new route is called Te Sigues Cayendo (7b+) 25m.

Collegats — Sector Cine

On our topo of the right-hand side of sector Cine (page 211 of Lleida Climbs) routes 49-52 are incorrectly placed:
Please refer to the following topo to update your guidebook.
Thanks to Pär Linholm of Climb in Spain for pointing out this error.

Vilanova de Meià — Tierra de Nadie

Oscar Borras on Tierra de Nadie (6b+, 175m),
Roca dels Arcs, Vilanova de Meia.

We now have a name for the 'mystery' climber on Tierra de Nadie (6b+, 175m) on page 186 of Lleida Climbs:

Oscar Borras.

This route is one of the many fine multi-pitch sport climbs on the magnificent Roca dels Arcs.

Santa Linya — Rollito Sharma

Rollito Sharma — first part (8b+)
Stop press!
Some crucial holds (on a section of tufa) have broken off this popular test-piece and it may now be considerably harder, or even impossible for shorter climbers.

Muriel Sarkaney on Rollito Sharma, Santa Linya.

Terradets — Paret de les Bruixes

Xarop de Bastó: this route was originally graded 8a, but was later downgraded to 7c+ (as it appears in Lleida Climbs). Recently a crucial  hold broke and reports now suggest the climb is back up to 8a.
Pomplemouse Rose: this route is graded 7c+ in the guidebook but many people feel it is definitely 8a.

Paret de les Bruixes, Terradets.

Santa Linya — missing route

Santa Linya: it has come to our attention that the topo on page 139 of Lleida Climbs is actually missing a route. Careless!
The route in question is Cada Uno pa su Lado (8a), starting 2 metres left of Irak Attack and joining that route just below the lower-off. On the topo shown on the left the missing climb is 28a.

El Cogul

Sector La Universitat & El Doctorat (page 303 of Lleida Climbs): we incorrectly graded problem 1.5d at 7C. In fact it's 6C.

Lisardo Marín on Do or Die (8B), El Cogul

Collegats — Sector Cine

Routes 14, 15 and 16 (page 210 of Lleida Climbs) have now been identified. They are:

14.   La Nostra  V
15.   La Teva     Ao/6a
16.   La Meva    Ao/V+

The Ao sections on La Teva and La Meva are on the starting overhang.
Many thanks for the information, supplied by Jimmy and Maitane — the routes' equippers.

Santa Linya — Catxasa 9a+

Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of the project Cataxasa (Route No 49, page 140 of Lleida Climbs) confirming the 9a+ grade suggested by the route's equipper, Dani Andrada.

Adam Ondra attempting Catxasa (9a+) in Santa Linya, early in 2010.

La Cova de Juncosa

La Travesia de las Cuatro Estaciones (8b+)

In the guidebook this boulder-traverse is shown going from right to left: in fact it goes from left to right. This meant that the grades of the middle two sections were actually reversed. See the new topo (right) for correct details.

La Travesia de las Cuatro Estaciones (8b)
La Cova de Juncosa * Dani Andrada

Camarasa

Sector Marcant Estil; Route No 8. Toy Viejo (6b+). Wrong name! It's actually called Tu Viju.
Information supplied by the route's creator, Toni Rosauro.

Gràcies Fixe

Many thanks to the Barcelona manufacturer and distributor of climbing gear, FIXE, who took out prominent advertising in the Lleida Climbs guidebook. Instead of conducting the transaction in the usual manner (money!), we managed to reach a mutually satisfactory agreement whereby Fixe paid for their advert by donating a very considerable quantity of bolting gear. The equipment — mostly bolt hangers and ring-style lower-offs — is currently being used to equip yet more new climbs in Lleida province, as well as re-equip some older routes.
We would also like to take this opportunity to say a big thanks to all the other advertisers in the Lleida Climbs guidebook:

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Without you it couldn't have happened.