Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!

Sunday, 11 May 2014

Abella de la Conca — new routes

Nic, owner of the Eco Refugi in Abella de la Conca, has sent us details of a new sector he's been developing in the zone. The new sector is situated just below El Canyon (Page 256 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Abella de la Conca — Climbing Festival Saturday June 7th

Come along and join the fun in Abella de la Conca on Saturday June 7th!

Friday, 2 May 2014

Sant Llorenç de Montgai — Xinxetes — Two new routes

Tom Zappe has added a further two new routes to his list of impressive climbs on sector 'Xinxetes' (Pages 88-89 in Lleida Climbs 2) at Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Tom says that the rock on the lower section (common to both routes) needs careful handling at the moment, but will certainly settle down with more ascents.

The new climbs are situated just to the right of 'Levitación con Vistas' (7a+/b) and are marked as 'A' and 'B' on the following topo.

Tom Zappe on pitch one of La Ratlla/Via de Llons (7b+), Sector Xinxetes, Sant Llorenç de Montgai.

Camarasa — Capricho de Vicho — New Routes

Albert Cortés and friends have equipped three very nice new climbs on sector Capricho de Vicho (Pages 48-49 in Lleida Climbs 2) situated around the pillar of 'Esbolon'.

On following topo the new routes are denoted as A, B and C.