Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Can Palauet & La Panotxa disequipped

We have received a report that the Collegats/Senterada sectors of La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 in Lleida Climbs 3) and Can Palauet (Pag. 328 in Lleida Climbs 3) have been totally disequipped. No further details are available at the moment.

Hem rebut informació que els sectors de la zona de Collegats/Senterada, La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 a Lleida Climbs 3) i Can Palauet (Pag. 328 a Lleida Climbs 3) han estat totalment desequipats. De moment això és tota la informació de que disposem.

Hemos recibido información de que los sectores de la zona de Collegats/Senterada, La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 en Lleida Climbs 3) y Can Palauet (Pag. 328 en Lleida Climbs 3) han sido totalmente desequipados. De momento es toda la información de la que disponemos.

Monday, 19 October 2020

Camarasa Parking

1) This affects sectors El Solarium, La Cova de L'Escaleta, El Túnel and Mongetae. In Lleida Climbs 3 we mention "limited parking" on the dam wall for these four sectors. However, there is now a 'no parking' signpost in this 3 car slot and fines are being handed out for offenders. The only option now remains the main parking areas beyond the second tunnel.

2) Due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the Hydroelectric plant has been temporarily gated, meaning the parking areas (P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs) for all the lower sectors — Marcant Estil, La Pera, Fashion, La Selva, etc., etc., are currently unavailable. The only option now is to park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way.

3) Sector Crestes de Conill North: due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the parking area for this sector (P6 in Lleida Climbs 3) is temporarily gated. One can either park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way or (better) use the parking area for Crestes de Conill South and approach from there.

Note: In addition to the above notifications, Camarasa seems to have recently become extremely popular with none-climbing visitors, meaning parking places rapidly fill up at weekends and bank holidays.

Wednesday, 8 July 2020

Sector La Cantera

Juan Gutiérrez has passed on a topo of a recently equipped sector in Sant Llorenç de Montgai, which we had previously been unaware of. The sector is named 'La Cantera' and is perfect for summer mornings and early afternoons — the sun only reaches it at 5pm. Here is Juan's topo.

Route number 3 has now been climbed and is 8a+. Route number 8 is 7a+.

Tuesday, 30 June 2020

Santa Linya — Barranc de Fontfreda

When Lleida Climbs 3rd edition was released in 2019, the majority of the recently equipped routes at sector Barranc de Fontfreda remained unclimbed. Now, only two of the fourteen routes still await free ascents. The latest grades are as follows:

Eslomeitor — Project 8a?
El Flanquexet — 6c/+
Romàntic de La Roca — Project 8a/b?
Habal Habal — 7b+
Marca de La Casa — 7b
Bonguis — 7a/+
Barangay 4 — 6c
Caçadors de Pubills — 6c/+
Jane the Virgin — 7b
Doble Axel — 7a+
Snow Falling — 7b/+
Ecos del Passat — 7b
Suroy Suroy — 7a/+
Gala Gala — 6c/+

Edu Vendrell on Habal Habal 7b+

Friday, 20 December 2019

GPS Coordinates

A recent conversation with a climber who was visiting Lleida for the first time, alerted us to the possible pitfalls of relying purely on the GPS coordinates we provide in the sector approach descriptions.
It seems that on two occasions his Satnav device took him and his friend to completely the wrong place. The first time this happened he was certain that the coordinates we gave in the guidebook were faulty, but when it happened again at a different sector he decided to investigate. It turned out that the mapping software he had installed on his Satnav was for driving only (on recognized roads) and as both the sector parking areas he had failed to reach involved 'off-road' driving on forestry tracks, the device didn't have a clue what to do. In fact, it took them to the nearest point on a surfaced road and then delivered the 'you have reached your destination' message.
The moral of this story is that you should not only make sure your Satnav device is loaded with the appropriate mapping software, but also make sure to read the approach descriptions and consult the physical maps in the guidebook!

Wednesday, 18 December 2019

Perles — Socud.com

The route Socud.com (sector Roc d'en Betriu in Perles), listed as a project in Lleida Climbs 3, has been climbed by Dani Andrada at a grade of 8a. It may have been done before...

Perles — Pont de L'Arc error

In Lleida Climbs 3 there is an error in the topo for Pont de L'Arc in Perles. We describe route 14 as Sin Perdón (8b+) and route 16 as 8a.no (8b+) when in fact it is the other way around.

Monday, 28 October 2019

Abella de La Conca — Error

Our Eagle-eyed correspondent, Albert Cortés, has spotted an error in the topo for the right-hand side of Sector Església (page 280 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition). Route number 41 is, in fact, 'Entrepans' (3) and number 42 is 'El 6c más duro del Mundo' (7b), not the other way around as we show it in the guide. Thanks Albert!

Saturday, 26 October 2019

Castellassos (Coll de Nargó) — update

A new climb has been equipped on the right-hand side of sector Castellassos in Coll de Nargó (pages 360-361 in Lleida Climbs 3rd. edition).
The route starts as for 'Nemon' then goes right after a few metres. No name is available yet but a provisional grade of 7b+ has been suggested.

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.

Fígols a L'Ombra — Update

Two new climbs have been added to the far right-hand side of sector 'Fígols a L'Ombra' in Fígols (pages 408-409 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).
No names are available for these climbs at the moment but both are graded 6b+.
Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.

Contrafort de Rumbau — Update

Here is an updated topo for the 'Pitos' area of Contrafort de Rumbau in Oliana (Page 338 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for the information.

Thursday, 17 October 2019

Lleida Climbs 3 now available!!!

The third edition of our Lleida Climbs guidebook is now available to for purchase both in Spain and the UK. The new guide is not just a minor update, it is packed full of new sectors and new routes!

Monday, 18 February 2019

Fígols - Sector Xapat: new approach info

New access restrictions affect the approach to Sector Xapat. In the current edition of Lleida Climbs we stated that those with 4x4 vehicles could drive all the way up the 'Camí de Narieda' track, from the L-401 road right to a parking area within 5 minutes of the sector. Unfortunately a 'no access for unauthorized vehicles' signpost has recently been placed right at the start of the track. Apparently some local climbers ignore the signpost and continue to drive to the crag... of course, we cannot condone this...
For those who don't wish to flout the rules, walking up the track is long (4km!) but not particularly arduous, and quite pleasant. A reasonable pace should see you at the lower of the two crags comprising the sector (Indian Summer) in 50-55 minutes.
There have also been access changes to the alternative approach to the sector from the north: the owners of 'La Serra' farmstead, through which the approach described in Lleida Climbs goes, have erected a large metal gate barring the way and made it clear they do not wish people passing through their property. Fortunately, it is possible to re-join the original path by using the track which forks rightward from the main track some 1.3km after the village of Romanins (and 600m before the the metal gate barring access to La Serra). Follow the track past farm buildings (no signposts) to reach the streambed. Here, at a sharp right-hand bend (just before reaching the Font de Codonyes) a path marked by a large cairn cuts off to the left. Follow the the path uphill past numerous cairns to wear it levels out, and then continue until reaching the original approach at the Figols / Font de Cordonyes signpost. Turn right and follow the original approach information as described in Lleida Climbs. The approach time is slightly longer than the original way (30-35 minutes) and the lack of parking areas near the start of the farm track (their are better places several hundred metres lower down) will add a few minutes more.
Note: Since the publication of Lleida Climbs second edition in 2013, the number of climbs in Sector Xapat has almost doubled. Revised topos will be published in the next edition of Lleida Climbs (planned for Autumn 2019 release) but in the meantime info can be found in the bar 'El Portal' in Organyà.

Sunday, 26 March 2017

'Eclipse' — Paret de l'Os

The line shown in Lleida Climbs (second edition) for the route 'Eclipse' (page 97) is actually a direct variation known as "Variant Boira". This is considerably harder than Eclipse 'original' (7a if done completely free) but is fully equipped with parabolts and rappel stations and is possible to ascend at V+ if a number of bolts are used for direct aid. Consult the topo below with pitch grades for the "Variant Boira".

Friday, 20 March 2015

Tres Ponts — route closures

UK climber Steve Crowe (a regular visitor to Catalunya) has informed us that, due to the presence of a rare species of plant, three of the classic hard routes in Tres Ponts have been 'banned' by the authorities. These are: El Segre (8a), Els Inconformistes (8a+) and L'Alternativa (8a+).
Apparently "Signs at the crag detail the plant species and location. Bolts and perma-draws still in-situ for now."
If practices employed at Camarasa a few years ago (when two complete sectors were stripped of hangers and the bolt-studs hammered into the rock because of the presence of Petrocoptis Montsicciana) it seems likely that the affected routes in Tres Ponts will soon be stripped...

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Abella Climb

Watch Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, and James Pearson gathered together this summer in Abella de la Conca (Spain) for a climbing festival organized with Edelrid & Vaude. This recently rediscovered area has amazing limestone and offers all year round climbing for all abilities.  In one week they did ten first ascents from 7b+ to 8c and bolted seven new 50m lines from 7a to 8c+. They also tried four projects (8c+/9a?) but for these, as Enzo Oddo puts it…they’ll have to come back!!
The new web site http://www.abellaclimb.com will give you more information about this crag and has online topos of the new sectors.

Este verano Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, y James Pearson han escalado en el guapísimo catalán pueblo de Abella de la Conca durante la trobadada organizada con Edelrid & Vaude . En esta zona se puede escalar todo el ano sobre una roca tipo Verdon. Dentro una semana han hecho las primeras ascensiones de 10 vias incluso dos 8c, y equipado 7 nuevas vías brutales de 50m de 7a hasta 8c+. Han probado también 4 proyectos (8c+/9a?) pero para estos como Enzo Oddo lo dice al final…hay que volver!!!
La nueva pagina web http://www.abellaclimb.com os permite buscar más información y topos para los nuevos sectores.

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!

Monday, 3 March 2014

Vilanova de Meià — new multi-pitch route

David Tarragó has sent us details about a new multi-pitch climb on Roca dels Arcs in Vilanova de Meià, equipped by himself and Paula Revoil last year.
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!

The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Camarasa — new sector

A new sector has just been developed in Camarasa: Sector Dexter.
The sector is located between Capricho del Vicho (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 48-49) and Fashion (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 60-61) on the higher level cliffs.

This is not a big sector (15 routes/maximum 22m) but the rock is excellent and the climbing superb.

All routes equipped by Albert Cortés and Pete O'Donovan during January/February 2014. Material donated by Lleida Climbs.

Wednesday, 26 February 2014

Abella de la Conca — Eco Refugi officially opens on March 1st

Abella de la Conca is one of the most stunningly situated villages in the whole of Catalunya and from March 1st visitors will be able to enjoy this unique and peaceful location to the full by staying in the new, spendidly situated eco-refugi.

Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.

During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.

Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.

Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at abellaclimb@gmail.com

Nic climbing Illian Tu Vas Tomber (6c) in Abella de la Conca

Ella enjoying Pre-Skool (V) in Abella de la Conca

The incredible arches of sector El Forat dels Lladres in
Abella de la Conca— home to some of the zone's hardest routes.