Monday, 10 January 2022

New Face Climbing Sectors in Montsec / Vilanova de Meià

Over the last few years, Lleida climber Albert Cortés, aided by his daughter, Laura, has developed two splendid new face-climbing sectors high in the Montsec hills near the zone of Vilanova de Meià.

The first sector — El Mirador del Montsec — actually comprises of three distinct sub-sectors situated on two different levels: the Lower Right, Lower Left (‘Area Privada’) and the Upper Crag (which can itself be split into ‘Left’ and ‘Right’). Collectively, they offer close to one hundred routes on generally excellent rock, ranging in difficulty from grade IV up to 8a, with some harder projects still to be redpointed. The walls range in angle from gentle slab to slightly overhanging and give highly technical face climbing on small holds and horizontal breaks. The situation and outlook are also absolutely stunning! The only negative factor (for some) might be the length of the approaches— 7km of off-road driving followed by between 25 and 35 minutes of uphill walking.

The second sector — Tossal de Les Torretes — lays approximately 3km to the west and is far more limited in scope, offering just 14 climbs ranging from 4c to 6a. However, the rock is immaculate and the situation truly superb, making this a must-visit sector for those operating in the lower grades.

Note: all routes were equipped by Albert Cortés, with some financial assistance from Lleida Climbs.

Orientation — Mirador del Montsec: predominantly south, meaning on cloudless days the crags are exposed to direct sunlight more or less throughout the day. In many nearby zones and sectors that orientation would limit climbing to just a few, short months a year (late autumn to early spring) but in El Mirador del Montsec, situated at altitudes in excess of 1500m, reasonable conditions can often be found anytime outside the very hottest months of mid-summer. It should go without saying that cloudy or windy days in the winter months are not the appropriate time to climb here, and even when the sun is out it’s always a good idea to pack a warm/windproof jacket for belaying.

 

Orientation — Tossal de Les Torretes: South-east. All the aforementioned comments regarding El Mirador del Montsec and weather conditions also apply here.

 

Approach — Mirador del Montsec: From the last few houses in the village of Vilanova de Meià (Lleida Climbs 3, pages 250-261) follow the L-913 up towards the main Vilanova sectors (Roca dels Arcs, etc.) but after 3km turn left onto an un-surfaced track, signposted ‘Ermita de Santa Maria de Meià’. Continue driving along the main track for 7km, ignoring a turn off to the right after 500m, signposted ‘Pas de Nerill’ and one to the left after 2km, signposted ‘Ermita de Santa Maria de Meià’, to reach a parking area (P5) on the right, just a few metres after a wooden signpost marking the start of the ‘Camí Ramader’ footpath.  Note: in dry conditions this track is perfectly drivable in a normal vehicle providing it has reasonable ground clearance, but should not be risked after heavy rains without 4x4 capability.

From the parking area the sectors are clearly visible on the skyline and look disconcertingly far away, but it’s not quite as bad as first appearances suggest. Follow the well-marked ‘Camí de Ramader’ path up the hillside­; the first 300m make for an unpleasant warm-up, being rather steep and relentless, but shortly after reaching the tree line the path begins to zigzag and things get progressively easier from thereon. After approximately 25 minutes of walking the lower right-hand sector is reached, via a short trail (cairn where this starts) branching right off the main path. Note: routes 65-80 are accessed by traversing rightwards from beneath the central part of the sector utilizing fixed ropes.

For the lower left-hand sector (‘Area Privada’): continue along the main ‘Camí de Ramader’ footpath for a further 150m to reach a second cairn, which marks the start of a short trail leading to the right-hand side of the sector (30 minutes from P5). Note: the left-hand side of this sector (routes 81-93) is situated at a higher level and is accessed using a short, vertical Via Ferrata.

For the upper sector, from the base of the lower right-hand sector, follow a trail directly uphill, leading to the base of the wall. Depending on which part of the cliff you intend to climb on, move either left or right from here (30-35 minutes from P5).


Approach — Tossal de Les Torretes: From the main parking areas in the zone of Vilanova de Meià, continue driving up the L-913 to the level area above the gorge. Approximately 300m after the Km 8 signpost there is an unsurfaced track branching off to the right, signposted ‘Toló’. Ignore this, instead continuing along the road for a further 1.7km to the Collada de l’Hostal Roig, where another unsurfaced track branches off to the left. Follow this — in reasonable weather conditions the track is drivable in a ‘normal’ (non 4x4) vehicle, providing it has decent ground clearance, but after heavy rain this may not be the case. Follow the main track, without deviation, for some 7.6km to where a smaller, rougher track branches off uphill to the left. Park 350m beyond this at a small clearing, being careful not to block other vehicles (P6). On foot, walk back to the start of the aforementioned sidetrack and follow this uphill for 750m to a flat, grassy area some 50m from the top of the cliffs. Walk directly to the cliff top then follow a narrow terrace down and left (facing out) to reach a short Via Ferrata leading down to the base of the sector (10 min. from P6). Note: those with ‘proper’ 4x4 vehicles may actually drive up the final track to the grassy area (P7) thus reducing the approach time to just a couple of minutes.

Water — Mirador del Montsec: There are no water sources at the sector itself, but one can fill up at Font del Manel, beside a circular artificial water reservoir 1 km before the parking area at the start of the ‘Camí Ramader’ footpath, or at Font de La Figuera, which is situated beside the main road L-913 road, approximately 650m beyond the turn-off onto the unsurfaced track that goes towards the sector (Km 3.8).

Water — Tossal de Les Torretes: There are no water sources at the sector itself. The closest spring is Font de La Figuera, which is situated beside the main L-913 road at Km 3.8.


Durant els últims anys, l’escalador Albert Cortés, ajudat per la seva filla Laura, ha equipat dos magnífics sectors sobre uns murs de plaques grises, gairebé al cim del Montsec, a prop de Vilanova de Meià. El primer sector – El Mirador del Montsec- compren 3 subsectors diferents situats en 2 nivells, el Baix Dreta, Baix Esquerra (“Area Privada”) i el de Dalt (que alhora podem dividir entre esquerra i dret). En total, hi ha gairebé 100 vies, en general sobre una roca sublim, i amb graus entre el 4c al 8a, amb alguns projectes encara pendents d’encadenar. Les parets van des de plaques inclinades fins a una mica o bastant desplomades i ofereixen una escalada tècnica sobre regletes o franges, encara que no sempre és així. La ubicació del lloc és absolutament espectacular. Però clar, tot te un preu, i és que l’aproximació és llarga, 7km. per una pista en bon estat i entre 25 i 35 minuts costa amunt. Nota: Totes les vies van ser equipades per Albert Cortés, gràcies a la donació de Lleida Climbs de part del material. 

El segon sector – Tossal de les Torretes – es situa aproximadament a 3km. a l’oest i és molt més petit, oferint només 14 vies d’entre 4c a 6a. No obstant, la roca és perfecta i la ubicació també, fent d’aquest sector una visita obligada pels que busquin graus baixos. 

Orientació — Mirador del Montsec: Majoritàriament orientat al Sud, i per tant, això vol dir que els dies assolellats, el sector està exposat al sol tot el dia. En altres sectors propers, aquest fet limitaria l’escalada als mesos més freds de l’any, però al Mirador del Montsec, situat a més de 1500 metres d’alçada, hi trobarem condicions raonables tot l’any si excloem els mesos més calorosos de l’estiu. Òbviament, durant els mesos d’hivern, si està ennuvolat o fa molt vent, no serà gens agradable escalar en aquest sector. Fins I tot, quan fa sol, no és mala idea de portar una jaqueta per assegurar. 

Orientació – Tossal de les Torretes: Sur Est. Tot el que s’esmenta sobre orientació i millor època per al sector El Mirador del Montsec aplica exactament aquí.  

Aproximació — Mirador del Montsec: Des de les últimes cases de Vilanova de Meià (Lleida Climbs 3, pàgines 250-261) seguiu la L-913 cap als principals sectors de Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs, etc.) situats al nord. Però als 3 km. desvieu-vos a l’esquerra per una pista sense asfaltar, senyalitzada “Ermita de Santa Maria de Meià”. Continueu per aquesta pista durant 7km (ignorant un desviament a la dreta després de 500 metres, senyalitzat com a Pas de Nerill, i un altre a l’esquerra després de 2 km. senyalitzat “Ermita de Meià”), fins arribar al parking (P5) just a la dreta després d’un senyal de fusta que indica l’inici del sender “Camí Ramader”. Nota: En condicions normals aquesta pista es accessible a tot tipus de vehicles, si no són massa baixos, però després que hagi plogut, millor accedir amb un 4x4. 

Des del parking, els sectors són clarament visibles a sobre nostre, i tot i que semblen molt allunyats, no n’hi ha per tant. Seguiu el corriol, ben marcat, “Camí Ramader” directament per la vessant de la muntanya. Els primers 300 metres són bastant pendents, però un cop arribeu als primers arbres, ja comença a pujar en ziga-zaga i la progressió es fa més agradable. Després d’uns 25 minuts, arribarem al sector de Baix Dret, per un corriol (fita gran) que marxa a la dreta del camí principal. Nota: Per les vies 65-80 cal travessar per un passamà des de la part central del sector.  

Pel sector Baix Esquerra (Area Privada): Continueu pel camí principal “Camí Ramader” durant uns 150 metres més, i allí trobareu un entrant que us deixa a la part dreta del sector (30 minuts des del Parking). Nota: per accedir a les vies de l’esquerra (vies 81-93) cal pujar per una curta i vertical ferrata. 

Per accedir al sector de Dalt: Des del sector Baix Dret, seguiu un corriol directament cap amunt, que porta a la base de la paret. Depenent de les vies que vulgueu escalar, un cop a la base de la paret, haureu d’anar a l’esquerra o a la dreta. 

Aproximació — Tossal de Les Torretes: Des del desviament entre la carretera de Vilanova de Meià i la pista de Rúbies (sector El Mirador del Montsec), continueu 5.5 km per la carretera principal fins al desviament cap a Toló. Continueu cap a l’esquerra per la carretera principal durant 1700 metres més i agafeu a l'esquerra la pista de la cara Nord del Montsec durant 7.6 km. Aquesta pista està en bon estat. Arribareu a un trencall, on surt cap a l'esquerra una pista estreta. Amb cotxe normal, podeu aparcar als vorals de la pista, sense bloquejar el pas de vehicles, o be seguir durant 350 metres més fins a un petit eixamplament (P6) amb capacitat per 3 o 4 vehicles. Seguir a peu aquesta pista estreta i que va planejant durant 750 metres. Si teniu 4x4 podeu pujar per la pista estreta fins al P7. Llavors gireu a l'esquerra direcció sud cap al cingle (evident, 50 metres) i localitzeu una rampa de roca que porta a una mini-ferrata i al peu de via (10 minuts des del P6 o 2 minuts des del P7.

Aigua — Mirador del Montsec: Al sector no hi ha cap font, pero podem agafar aigua a la Font del Manel, al costat d'una bassa d'aigua circular, 1 km. abans del parking a l'inici del "Camí Ramader" o a la Font de la Figuera, just al costat de la carretera L-913, uns 650 metres després del desviament cap a la pista de terra que porta al sector.

Aigua — Tossal de Les Torretes: Al sector no hi ha cap font. El més aprop es troba a la Font de la Figuera, just al costat de la carretera L-913 a Km 3.8.


Durante los últimos años, el escalador Albert Cortés, ayudado por su hija Laura, ha equipado dos magníficos sectores sobre unos muros de placas grises, casi en la cima del Montsec, cerca de Vilanova de Meià. El primer sector – El Mirador del Montsec – comprende 3 subsectores diferentes situados en 2 niveles, el Bajo Derecha, Bajo Izquierda (“Area Privada”) y el de Arriba (que a su vez se puede dividir entre izquierdo y derecho). En total, hay casi 100 vías, en general sobre una roca fantástica, y con grados entre el 4c y el 8a, con algunos proyectos todavía sin encadenar. Las paredes van desde placas inclinadas hasta muros verticales o ligeramente extraplomados y ofrecen una escalada técnica sobre regletas o franjas, aunqué no siempre es así. La ubicación del lugar es absolutamente espectacular. Pero claro, todo tiene un precio, y es que la aproximación es larga, 7km por una pista en buen estado y luego entre 25 y 35 minutos cuesta arriba andando. Nota: Todas las vías fueron equipadas por Albert Cortés gracias a la donación de parte del material por parte de Lleida Climbs. 

El segundo sector – Tossal de les Torretes – se situa aproximadamente a 3 km. al oeste y es mucho más pequeño, ofreciendo solamente 14 rutas de 4c a 6a. No obstante, la roca es absolutamente perfecta y la ubicación también, haciendo este sector de visita obligada para los que buscan grados bajos. 

Orientación — Mirador del Montsec: Mayoritariamente orientado al Sur, y por lo tanto, esto significa que los días soleados, el sector está expuesto al sol todo el día. En otros sectores cercanos, este hecho limitaría la escalada a los meses más frios del año, pero en el Mirador del Montsec esto no es así, ya que está situado a más de 1500 metros de altura y encontraremos condiciones razonables todo el año, exceptuando los meses más calurosos del verano. Óbviamente, durante los meses de invierno, si està nublado o ventoso, no será nada agradable escalar en este sector. E incluso, cuando luce el sol, no es mala idea llevar una chaqueta para asegurar. 

Orientación — Tossal de Les Torretes: Sur Est. Tot el que s’esmenta sobre orientació i millor època per al sector El Mirador del Montsec aplica exactament aquí. 

 Aproximación — Mirador del Montsec: Desde las últimas casas de Vilanova de Meià (Lleida Climbs 3, páginas 250-261) seguid la L-913 hacia los principales sectores de Vilanova de Meià (Roca dels Arcs, etc.) situados al norte. Pero a los 3 km. desviaros a la izquierda por una pista sin asfaltar, señalizada “Ermita de Santa Maria de Meià”. Continuad per esta pista durante 7km (ignorando un desvio a la derecha después de 500 metros, señalizado como Pas de Nerill, y otro a la izquierda después de 2 km. señalizado “Ermita de Meià”), hasta llegar al parking (P5) justo a la derecha después de un poste de madera que indica el inicio del sendero “Camí Ramader”. Nota: En condiciones normales esta pista es accesible a todo tipo de vehículos, si no son demasiado bajos, pero después de lluvias, mejor acceder con un 4x4. 

Desde el parking, los sectores son claramente visibles encima nuestro, y aunque parecen muy lejanos, no hay para tanto. Seguid el sendero, bien marcado, “Camí Ramader” directamente por la ladera de la montaña. Los primeros 300 metros son bastante empinados, pero una vez alcanzáis los primeros árboles, la pendiente se suaviza y asciende en zigzag, progresando de manera más agradable. Después de unos 25 minutos, llegaremos al sector de Bajo Derecha, por un sendero (hito grande) que sube hacia la derecha del camino principal. Nota: Para las vías 65-80 hay que usar un pasamanos desde la parte central del sector. 

Para el sector Bajo Izquierda (Area Privada): Continuad por el camino principal “Camí Ramader” durante unos 150 metros más, y allí veréis un entrante que os deja en la parte derecha del sector (30 minutos desde el Parking). Nota: para acceder a las vías de la izquierda (vías 81-93) hay que subir por una corta y vertical ferrata. 

Para acceder al sector de Arriba: Desde el sector Bajo Derecha, seguid un sendero directamente hacia arriba, que lleva a la base de la pared. Dependiendo de las vías que queráis escalar, una vez en la base de la pared, deberéis ir a la izquierda o a la derecha. 

Aproximación — Tossal de Les Torretes: Desde el desvio entre la carretera de Vilanova de Meià y la pista de Rúbies (sector El Mirador del Montsec), continuad 5.5 km. por la carretara principal hasta el desvío hacia Toló. Continuad por la izquierda por la carretera principal durante 1700 metros más y allí tomad a la izquierda la pista de la cara Norte del Montsec durante 7.6 km. Esta pista está en buen estado. Llegaréis a un ramal, donde sale una estrecha pista hacia la izquierda. Con un coche normal, aparcar a los lados de la pista sin bloquear el paso, o continuar 350 metros más hasta un pequeño ensanchamiento (P6) con capacidad para 3 o 4 vehículos. Seguir a pie esta estrecha pista que va llaneando, durante 750 metros. Si tenéis 4x4 podeis subir por la pista estrecha hasta el P7. Entonces girad hacia la izquierda, dirección Sur, hacia la cima de la pared (evidente, 50 metros) y localizad una rampa rocosa que lleva a una mini ferrata y al pie de vía (10 minutos desde el P6 o 2 minutos desde el P7.

Agua — Mirador del Montsec: En el sector no hay ninguna fuente, pero podemos tomar agua en la Font del Manel, al lado de una balsa de agua circular, 1 km. antes del parking al inicio del "Camí Ramader" o en la Font de la Figuera, justo al lado de la carretera L-913, unos 650 metros después del desvio hacia la pista de tierra que lleva al sector.

Agua — Tossal de Les Torretes: En el sector no hay ninguna fuente. El mas cerca esta en la Font de la Figuera, justo al lado de la carretera L-913 a Km 3.8.

 

 

 
 
 








 
 
 





 

Senyor Postu (5a) • Mirador del Montsec • Laura Cortés

 
Bufa i fer Ampolles (6b+) • Mirador del Montsec • Jere Erill  


Tope de Gama (7b/+) • Mirador del Montsec • Jere Erill

Tope de Gama (7b/+) • Mirador del Montsec • Jere Eril


Avi (5a) • Mirador del Montsec • Tracy White


Toti (6b+) • Mirador del Montsec • Laura Palau

 
Aromes del Montsec (7a) • Mirador del Montsec • Araceli Segarra

Rockbuster (7b) • Mirador del Montsec • Araceli Segarra

Pandemia (7a+) • Mirador del Montsec • Laura Palau

 
Mirador del Monsec - Upper / Superior

Pipistrello (5c) • Mirador del Montsec • Albert Cortés

Sauternes (6c) • Mirador del Montsec • Albert Cortés

 
Kokoro (8a) • Mirador del Montsec • Jere Erill


This Girl is on Pfizer (5c) • Tossal de Les Torretes • Laura Cortés

Ole Tu!!! (5b) • Tossal de Les Torretes • Jez Martin

Fot Lo Camp!!! (5b) • Tossal de Les Torretes • Laura Cortes



Friday, 10 December 2021

Camarasa Parking — December 2021

 

The following is an update to our post regarding parking areas for many sectors in Camarasa (first published in November 2020).

1) Sectors 1-15 (+22) in Lleida Climbs 3:

It is now looking increasingly likely that the metal barrier gate at the start of the access road to the Central Hidroelèctrica de Camarasa is a permanent fixture. This means that the advice given in our original post still stands: the parking areas P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs 3 are no longer available and walking from the parking area at the head of the access road (east side of the Pont del Pastor Bridge on the C13) is now the only option.

However, due to the recent increase in popularity of Camarasa with non-climbers (walkers, rafters, etc.) this parking area is frequently full from early morning onwards, particularly at weekends and during holiday periods. In response to this, the local council has created a larger parking area on the right-hand side of the road, approximately 350m after the Pont del Pastor road-bridge. Of course, that means even more walking…

2) Sector 17 (Crestes de Conill-North) Lleida Climbs 3:

The locked metal barrier gate at the start of the un-surfaced track at the western end of the Pont del Pastor road-bridge appears to be a permanent fixture. One must now park at either of the aforementioned locations (see above) and walk the track (1.1km) to the previous P6 parking area. Alternatively, follow the approach for Crestes de Conill-South and continue rightwards along a well-marked footpath from there.

3) Sectors 18-21 in Lleida Climbs 3:

The previously mentioned closures of the limited parking areas on the dam wall still stand. Please use the P7 parking areas (after the second tunnel) specified in Lleida Climbs 3. If these are full, drive back down to the new parking area 350m north of the Pont del Pastor road-bridge and walk up the C13 to the start of the access footpaths. Note 1: there are no pavements on the C13 so great care is needed with regard to passing vehicles. Note 2: there are actually a limited number of places a little further up the road from the main parking area, which will reduce your walking time marginally.

Tuesday, 7 December 2021

Camarasa — El Solarium — New Climbs

J. Sutrias "Sutri" recently informed us about 5 new climbs he has equipped on the left-hand side of El Solarium in Camarasa (Lleida Climbs 3 pags. 76-77).




Tuesday, 27 April 2021

Can Palauet & La Panotxa disequipped

We have received a report that the Collegats/Senterada sectors of La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 in Lleida Climbs 3) and Can Palauet (Pag. 328 in Lleida Climbs 3) have been totally disequipped. No further details are available at the moment.

Hem rebut informació que els sectors de la zona de Collegats/Senterada, La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 a Lleida Climbs 3) i Can Palauet (Pag. 328 a Lleida Climbs 3) han estat totalment desequipats. De moment això és tota la informació de que disposem.

Hemos recibido información de que los sectores de la zona de Collegats/Senterada, La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 en Lleida Climbs 3) y Can Palauet (Pag. 328 en Lleida Climbs 3) han sido totalmente desequipados. De momento es toda la información de la que disponemos.

Monday, 19 October 2020

Camarasa Parking

1) This affects sectors El Solarium, La Cova de L'Escaleta, El Túnel and Mongetae. In Lleida Climbs 3 we mention "limited parking" on the dam wall for these four sectors. However, there is now a 'no parking' signpost in this 3 car slot and fines are being handed out for offenders. The only option now remains the main parking areas beyond the second tunnel.

2) Due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the Hydroelectric plant has been temporarily gated, meaning the parking areas (P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs) for all the lower sectors — Marcant Estil, La Pera, Fashion, La Selva, etc., etc., are currently unavailable. The only option now is to park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way.

3) Sector Crestes de Conill North: due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the parking area for this sector (P6 in Lleida Climbs 3) is temporarily gated. One can either park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way or (better) use the parking area for Crestes de Conill South and approach from there.

Note: In addition to the above notifications, Camarasa seems to have recently become extremely popular with none-climbing visitors, meaning parking places rapidly fill up at weekends and bank holidays.


Wednesday, 8 July 2020

Sector La Cantera

Juan Gutiérrez has passed on a topo of a recently equipped sector in Sant Llorenç de Montgai, which we had previously been unaware of. The sector is named 'La Cantera' and is perfect for summer mornings and early afternoons — the sun only reaches it at 5pm. Here is Juan's topo.



Route number 3 has now been climbed and is 8a+. Route number 8 is 7a+.

Tuesday, 30 June 2020

Santa Linya — Barranc de Fontfreda

When Lleida Climbs 3rd edition was released in 2019, the majority of the recently equipped routes at sector Barranc de Fontfreda remained unclimbed. Now, only two of the fourteen routes still await free ascents. The latest grades are as follows:

Eslomeitor — Project 8a?
El Flanquexet — 6c/+
Romàntic de La Roca — Project 8a/b?
Habal Habal — 7b+
Marca de La Casa — 7b
Bonguis — 7a/+
Barangay 4 — 6c
Caçadors de Pubills — 6c/+
Jane the Virgin — 7b
Doble Axel — 7a+
Snow Falling — 7b/+
Ecos del Passat — 7b
Suroy Suroy — 7a/+
Gala Gala — 6c/+

Edu Vendrell on Habal Habal 7b+


Friday, 20 December 2019

GPS Coordinates

A recent conversation with a climber who was visiting Lleida for the first time, alerted us to the possible pitfalls of relying purely on the GPS coordinates we provide in the sector approach descriptions.
It seems that on two occasions his Satnav device took him and his friend to completely the wrong place. The first time this happened he was certain that the coordinates we gave in the guidebook were faulty, but when it happened again at a different sector he decided to investigate. It turned out that the mapping software he had installed on his Satnav was for driving only (on recognized roads) and as both the sector parking areas he had failed to reach involved 'off-road' driving on forestry tracks, the device didn't have a clue what to do. In fact, it took them to the nearest point on a surfaced road and then delivered the 'you have reached your destination' message.
The moral of this story is that you should not only make sure your Satnav device is loaded with the appropriate mapping software, but also make sure to read the approach descriptions and consult the physical maps in the guidebook!

Wednesday, 18 December 2019

Perles — Socud.com

The route Socud.com (sector Roc d'en Betriu in Perles), listed as a project in Lleida Climbs 3, has been climbed by Dani Andrada at a grade of 8a. It may have been done before...

Perles — Pont de L'Arc error

In Lleida Climbs 3 there is an error in the topo for Pont de L'Arc in Perles. We describe route 14 as Sin Perdón (8b+) and route 16 as 8a.no (8b+) when in fact it is the other way around.


Monday, 28 October 2019

Abella de La Conca — Error

Our Eagle-eyed correspondent, Albert Cortés, has spotted an error in the topo for the right-hand side of Sector Església (page 280 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition). Route number 41 is, in fact, 'Entrepans' (3) and number 42 is 'El 6c más duro del Mundo' (7b), not the other way around as we show it in the guide. Thanks Albert!

Saturday, 26 October 2019

Castellassos (Coll de Nargó) — update

A new climb has been equipped on the right-hand side of sector Castellassos in Coll de Nargó (pages 360-361 in Lleida Climbs 3rd. edition).
The route starts as for 'Nemon' then goes right after a few metres. No name is available yet but a provisional grade of 7b+ has been suggested.

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.


Fígols a L'Ombra — Update

Two new climbs have been added to the far right-hand side of sector 'Fígols a L'Ombra' in Fígols (pages 408-409 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).
No names are available for these climbs at the moment but both are graded 6b+.
Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.


Contrafort de Rumbau — Update

Here is an updated topo for the 'Pitos' area of Contrafort de Rumbau in Oliana (Page 338 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for the information.


Thursday, 17 October 2019

Lleida Climbs 3 now available!!!

The third edition of our Lleida Climbs guidebook is now available to for purchase both in Spain and the UK. The new guide is not just a minor update, it is packed full of new sectors and new routes!
 

Monday, 18 February 2019

Fígols - Sector Xapat: new approach info

New access restrictions affect the approach to Sector Xapat. In the current edition of Lleida Climbs we stated that those with 4x4 vehicles could drive all the way up the 'Camí de Narieda' track, from the L-401 road right to a parking area within 5 minutes of the sector. Unfortunately a 'no access for unauthorized vehicles' signpost has recently been placed right at the start of the track. Apparently some local climbers ignore the signpost and continue to drive to the crag... of course, we cannot condone this...
For those who don't wish to flout the rules, walking up the track is long (4km!) but not particularly arduous, and quite pleasant. A reasonable pace should see you at the lower of the two crags comprising the sector (Indian Summer) in 50-55 minutes.
There have also been access changes to the alternative approach to the sector from the north: the owners of 'La Serra' farmstead, through which the approach described in Lleida Climbs goes, have erected a large metal gate barring the way and made it clear they do not wish people passing through their property. Fortunately, it is possible to re-join the original path by using the track which forks rightward from the main track some 1.3km after the village of Romanins (and 600m before the the metal gate barring access to La Serra). Follow the track past farm buildings (no signposts) to reach the streambed. Here, at a sharp right-hand bend (just before reaching the Font de Codonyes) a path marked by a large cairn cuts off to the left. Follow the the path uphill past numerous cairns to wear it levels out, and then continue until reaching the original approach at the Figols / Font de Cordonyes signpost. Turn right and follow the original approach information as described in Lleida Climbs. The approach time is slightly longer than the original way (30-35 minutes) and the lack of parking areas near the start of the farm track (their are better places several hundred metres lower down) will add a few minutes more.
Note: Since the publication of Lleida Climbs second edition in 2013, the number of climbs in Sector Xapat has almost doubled. Revised topos will be published in the next edition of Lleida Climbs (planned for Autumn 2019 release) but in the meantime info can be found in the bar 'El Portal' in Organyà.

Sunday, 26 March 2017

'Eclipse' — Paret de l'Os

The line shown in Lleida Climbs (second edition) for the route 'Eclipse' (page 97) is actually a direct variation known as "Variant Boira". This is considerably harder than Eclipse 'original' (7a if done completely free) but is fully equipped with parabolts and rappel stations and is possible to ascend at V+ if a number of bolts are used for direct aid. Consult the topo below with pitch grades for the "Variant Boira".



Friday, 20 March 2015

Tres Ponts — route closures

UK climber Steve Crowe (a regular visitor to Catalunya) has informed us that, due to the presence of a rare species of plant, three of the classic hard routes in Tres Ponts have been 'banned' by the authorities. These are: El Segre (8a), Els Inconformistes (8a+) and L'Alternativa (8a+).
Apparently "Signs at the crag detail the plant species and location. Bolts and perma-draws still in-situ for now."
If practices employed at Camarasa a few years ago (when two complete sectors were stripped of hangers and the bolt-studs hammered into the rock because of the presence of Petrocoptis Montsicciana) it seems likely that the affected routes in Tres Ponts will soon be stripped...

Tuesday, 5 August 2014

Abella Climb


Watch Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, and James Pearson gathered together this summer in Abella de la Conca (Spain) for a climbing festival organized with Edelrid & Vaude. This recently rediscovered area has amazing limestone and offers all year round climbing for all abilities.  In one week they did ten first ascents from 7b+ to 8c and bolted seven new 50m lines from 7a to 8c+. They also tried four projects (8c+/9a?) but for these, as Enzo Oddo puts it…they’ll have to come back!!
The new web site http://www.abellaclimb.com will give you more information about this crag and has online topos of the new sectors.

Este verano Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, y James Pearson han escalado en el guapísimo catalán pueblo de Abella de la Conca durante la trobadada organizada con Edelrid & Vaude . En esta zona se puede escalar todo el ano sobre una roca tipo Verdon. Dentro una semana han hecho las primeras ascensiones de 10 vias incluso dos 8c, y equipado 7 nuevas vías brutales de 50m de 7a hasta 8c+. Han probado también 4 proyectos (8c+/9a?) pero para estos como Enzo Oddo lo dice al final…hay que volver!!!
La nueva pagina web http://www.abellaclimb.com os permite buscar más información y topos para los nuevos sectores.

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!