We have received a report that the Collegats/Senterada sectors of La Panotxa (Pags. 326-327 in Lleida Climbs 3) and Can Palauet (Pag. 328 in Lleida Climbs 3) have been totally disequipped. No further details are available at the moment.
Tuesday, 27 April 2021
Monday, 19 October 2020
1) This affects sectors El Solarium, La Cova de L'Escaleta, El Túnel and Mongetae. In Lleida Climbs 3 we mention "limited parking" on the dam wall for these four sectors. However, there is now a 'no parking' signpost in this 3 car slot and fines are being handed out for offenders. The only option now remains the main parking areas beyond the second tunnel.
2) Due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the Hydroelectric plant has been temporarily gated, meaning the parking areas (P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs) for all the lower sectors — Marcant Estil, La Pera, Fashion, La Selva, etc., etc., are currently unavailable. The only option now is to park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way.
3) Sector Crestes de Conill North: due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the parking area for this sector (P6 in Lleida Climbs 3) is temporarily gated. One can either park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way or (better) use the parking area for Crestes de Conill South and approach from there.
Note: In addition to the above notifications, Camarasa seems to have recently become extremely popular with none-climbing visitors, meaning parking places rapidly fill up at weekends and bank holidays.
Wednesday, 8 July 2020
Route number 3 has now been climbed and is 8a+. Route number 8 is 7a+.
Tuesday, 30 June 2020
Eslomeitor — Project 8a?
El Flanquexet — 6c/+
Romàntic de La Roca — Project 8a/b?
Habal Habal — 7b+
Marca de La Casa — 7b
Bonguis — 7a/+
Barangay 4 — 6c
Caçadors de Pubills — 6c/+
Jane the Virgin — 7b
Doble Axel — 7a+
Snow Falling — 7b/+
Ecos del Passat — 7b
Suroy Suroy — 7a/+
Gala Gala — 6c/+
|Edu Vendrell on Habal Habal 7b+|
Friday, 20 December 2019
It seems that on two occasions his Satnav device took him and his friend to completely the wrong place. The first time this happened he was certain that the coordinates we gave in the guidebook were faulty, but when it happened again at a different sector he decided to investigate. It turned out that the mapping software he had installed on his Satnav was for driving only (on recognized roads) and as both the sector parking areas he had failed to reach involved 'off-road' driving on forestry tracks, the device didn't have a clue what to do. In fact, it took them to the nearest point on a surfaced road and then delivered the 'you have reached your destination' message.
The moral of this story is that you should not only make sure your Satnav device is loaded with the appropriate mapping software, but also make sure to read the approach descriptions and consult the physical maps in the guidebook!
Wednesday, 18 December 2019
Monday, 28 October 2019
Saturday, 26 October 2019
The route starts as for 'Nemon' then goes right after a few metres. No name is available yet but a provisional grade of 7b+ has been suggested.
Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.
No names are available for these climbs at the moment but both are graded 6b+.
Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.
Thursday, 17 October 2019
Monday, 18 February 2019
For those who don't wish to flout the rules, walking up the track is long (4km!) but not particularly arduous, and quite pleasant. A reasonable pace should see you at the lower of the two crags comprising the sector (Indian Summer) in 50-55 minutes.
There have also been access changes to the alternative approach to the sector from the north: the owners of 'La Serra' farmstead, through which the approach described in Lleida Climbs goes, have erected a large metal gate barring the way and made it clear they do not wish people passing through their property. Fortunately, it is possible to re-join the original path by using the track which forks rightward from the main track some 1.3km after the village of Romanins (and 600m before the the metal gate barring access to La Serra). Follow the track past farm buildings (no signposts) to reach the streambed. Here, at a sharp right-hand bend (just before reaching the Font de Codonyes) a path marked by a large cairn cuts off to the left. Follow the the path uphill past numerous cairns to wear it levels out, and then continue until reaching the original approach at the Figols / Font de Cordonyes signpost. Turn right and follow the original approach information as described in Lleida Climbs. The approach time is slightly longer than the original way (30-35 minutes) and the lack of parking areas near the start of the farm track (their are better places several hundred metres lower down) will add a few minutes more.
Note: Since the publication of Lleida Climbs second edition in 2013, the number of climbs in Sector Xapat has almost doubled. Revised topos will be published in the next edition of Lleida Climbs (planned for Autumn 2019 release) but in the meantime info can be found in the bar 'El Portal' in Organyà.
Sunday, 26 March 2017
Friday, 20 March 2015
Apparently "Signs at the crag detail the plant species and location. Bolts and perma-draws still in-situ for now."
If practices employed at Camarasa a few years ago (when two complete sectors were stripped of hangers and the bolt-studs hammered into the rock because of the presence of Petrocoptis Montsicciana) it seems likely that the affected routes in Tres Ponts will soon be stripped...
Tuesday, 5 August 2014
Tuesday, 20 May 2014
Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!
These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.
As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!
Be safe out there!
Monday, 3 March 2014
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!
The sector is located between Capricho del Vicho (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 48-49) and Fashion (Lleida Climbs 2 pages 60-61) on the higher level cliffs.
This is not a big sector (15 routes/maximum 22m) but the rock is excellent and the climbing superb.
All routes equipped by Albert Cortés and Pete O'Donovan during January/February 2014. Material donated by Lleida Climbs.
Wednesday, 26 February 2014
Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.
During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.
Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.
Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at email@example.com
|Nic climbing Illian Tu Vas Tomber (6c) in Abella de la Conca|
|Ella enjoying Pre-Skool (V) in Abella de la Conca|
|The incredible arches of sector El Forat dels Lladres in|
Abella de la Conca— home to some of the zone's hardest routes.