Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).
Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!
These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.
As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!
Be safe out there!
Tuesday, 20 May 2014
Monday, 3 March 2014
Vilanova de Meià — new multi-pitch route
David Tarragó has sent us details about a new multi-pitch climb on Roca dels Arcs in Vilanova de Meià, equipped by himself and Paula Revoil last year.
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!
The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!
The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).
Labels:
Vilanova de Meià
Wednesday, 26 February 2014
Abella de la Conca — Eco Refugi officially opens on March 1st
Abella de la Conca is one of the most stunningly situated villages in the whole of Catalunya and from March 1st visitors will be able to enjoy this unique and peaceful location to the full by staying in the new, spendidly situated eco-refugi.
Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.
During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.
Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.
Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at abellaclimb@gmail.com
Over the past two years, guardians Nic and Ella have lovingly renovated this old townhouse, placing great emphasis on using ecologically sourced materials. It now offers self-catering accommodation for up to 15 guests.
During the same period they have almost doubled the number of sport-climbs on the magnificent cliffs surrounding the village: there are now in the region of 200 routes between V and 8c+, offering everything from delicate face climbing to overhanging tufas, and with such diverse orientations as to allow climbing throughout the year — even on the hottest days of mid-summer.
Abella is also perfectly situated to allow easy access to many of the other top climbing locations in Lleida province: zones such as Terradets, Àger, Vilanova de Meià, Collegats, Camarasa, Sant Llorenç de Montgai, Alòs de Balaguer, Santa Linya, Os de Balaguer, Oliana, Coll de Nargó, Tres Ponts and Perles are all within an hours drive.
Fore more information contact Nic or Ella at abellaclimb@gmail.com
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| Nic climbing Illian Tu Vas Tomber (6c) in Abella de la Conca |
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| Ella enjoying Pre-Skool (V) in Abella de la Conca |
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| The incredible arches of sector El Forat dels Lladres in Abella de la Conca— home to some of the zone's hardest routes. |
Labels:
Abella de la Conca
Monday, 25 November 2013
Lleida Climbs 2nd Edition!
The
second edition features 424 pages — 88 more than the first book— and lists
almost 50% more routes. Many of these are situated on newly developed sectors
in zones such as Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer and Abella de la Conca.
We
would like to point out that proceeds from the first guidebook — both from
advertising revenue and sales of the book itself — have played an important
role in financing development of many of the new sectors, and would like to
extend our sincere thanks to all our sponsors and customers.
Lleida Climbs, 2a. edició !!
Últimes notícies: tenim el plaer d'anunciar-vos que acaba de sortir a la venda la segona edició de la guia Lleida Climbs !
Aquesta
segona edició, té 424 pàgines - 88 més que l'anterior - i inclou
almenys un 50% més de vies. Moltes d'aquestes se situen en sectors
totalment nous en zones com Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer i Abella de la
Conca.
Voldriem destacar que gràcies als guanys de la
primera edició - ja sigui per la publicitat inserida o a les vendes de
la guia - hem pogut finançar l'equipament de molts dels nous sectors que
us oferim, i voldriem donar les gràcies i el més sincer agraïment als
nostres sponsors i compradors de la nostra guia.
Lleida Climbs, 2a. edición !!
Últimas noticias: tenemos el placer de anunciaros que acaba de salir a la venta la segunda edición de la guía Lleida Climbs !
Esta
segunda edición, tiene 424 páginas - 88 más que la anterior - e incluye
al menos un 50% más de vías. Muchas de estas se sitúan en sectores
totalmente nuevos en zonas como Camarasa, Alòs de Balaguer y Abella de
la Conca.
Quisiéramos destacar que gracias a las
ganancias de la primera edición - ya sea por la publicidad o por las
ventas de la guía - hemos podido financiar el equipamiento de muchos de
los nuevos sectores que os ofrecemos, y quisiéramos dar las gracias y
nuestro más sincero agradecimiento a los spónsores y a los compradores
de nuestra guía.
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