New First Ascent in Mirador del Montsec

Jere Erill has very recently made the first acsent of the project 'In Albis' at sector 'Area Privada' in Mirador del Montsec. Originally estimated at a possible 8b, the route was climbed at 8a/+.

Albert Cortés was there to witness Jere's ascent and has supplied us with some pictures from the day, including one of a portable temperature gauge displaying what a fantastic hot-weather escape this zone is.
 

 

 

 

Oliana — After the Fire

 

During the scorching hot summer of 2022, the countryside of western Catalunya became tinderbox dry. Wildfires were common and often extremely difficult to contain. One such, on June 19^th, just west of the town of Oliana in Lleida province, roared up a heavily forested hillside and ravaged the world-famous sport-climbing sector, Contrafort de Rumbau. This crag, developed by such preeminent climbers as Chris Sharma and Dani Andrada, hosted multiple high 8th and 9th grade routes and climbers came from around the globe to pit themselves against the witheringly steep test-pieces.

Following the fire, initial inspection reports were depressing to read: virtually the whole of the left-hand side of the wall, home to most of the ‘easier’ routes, appeared to have suffered severe and permanent damage, the foot of the crag littered with fallen debris, while the major routes in the centre of the wall, although escaping the worst of the devastation, could never be climbed again without every hold and every bolt checked for safety.

And of course, the once beautiful wooded hillside below the crag now looked like a post-holocaust landscape.

But then, after the initial gloom, something amazing started to happen. Locally based climber, Svana Bjarnason, launched a crowd-funding page with the aim of raising funds to buy bolting gear to re-equip the crag. She also assembled a small team of volunteers (around a dozen at first, but later spreading to twice the number) to begin work on clearing off loose rock, refurbishing the approach path and checking every hold and every bolt.

Some routes required relatively little work, while others, especially those on the left-hand side of the crag, needed thouroughly ‘de-scaling’ and completely re-equipping. Incredibly, just a few months after the work started, the majority of routes are now climbable again, although exceptions remain and visiting climbers should be aware that work may still be in progress for the immediate future.

I asked Svana to give us a list of names of those individuals who have hand-on helped with the project, together with companies and organisations which have donated equipment:

Dan, Jorg, Chris, Nico, Will, Bobby, Lolo, Emile, Cesar, Martina, Nils, Arnau, Terri, Tom, Sofie, Vincent, Lulu, Pierre, Gaz, Patrick, Paco, Tonio, Toni, Albert, Caro, Marianne. 

Associations and brands that gave us gear:  Edelrid, Petzl, Lappas Climbing bolts, Greenspits, Fanatic Climbing, Kletterzentrum Innsbruck, Mountain Boot UK, Lhotse, RAB.

Lleida Climbs also donated some stainless steel maillons, belay units and cable ‘perma-draws'.

Brands that supplied gear at discount: Fixe, Mammut.

Climber and photographer Emil Pino, who himself helped with the restoration, was kind enough to send us some excellent images chronicling the progression of the work. 

 

 

 

Oliana — Fire Damage

News has reached us of some serious damage to the world-famous sector of Contrafort de Rumbau in Oliana. Apparently, the raging wildfires that have devastated parts of Catalunya recently, engulfed much of the cliff, rendering many routes unclimbable, either temporarily or permanently. 

In particular, the left-hand side of the wall (everything left of the route 'Mishi) is said to have been totally destroyed in terms of climbing, with rock falls occurring in the intense heat. Further to the right, the damage has been less severe, but all routes will need to be checked for dangerous holds and bolts before any climbing can begin again.

Signs at the base of the approach path have been erected to deter would-be visitors.

Fires have also raged across other parts of Lleida province, in particulare, close to the zones of La Pauta and Alòs de Balaguer. We will provide further updates as and when information becomes available.

 

Santa Linya - Cova Gran

Some news and updates, kindly sent to us by Pol Ortiz.

a) At the left-hand side of the cave, routes between Tio Calambres and Airline L1 are currently not possible to climb due to a fenced off structure protecting the archaeological dig. Although there is doorway access to the area, a signpost clearly states that climbing is not allowed. Local climbers are trying to make sure that no one abuses this arrangement, which would only lead to further prohibitions. Therefore DO NOT ENTER THE FENCED OFF AREA UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.

b) A variation of the project Fin de La Tregua has been climbed. The original route went up and left to join Rollito Sharma, but the new, more logical line goes rightwards to join La Fabelita, finishing at the R2 belay of La Fabela. Done this way, the route is named Climbinpeace and is 8c+. The original Fin de La Tregua project still remains unclimbed.

c) The project Joedan has now been climbed at 9a.

d) Open your Mind L1 is now considered solid 8c+ rather than 8c/+.

e) El Koala L1 + L2 is now considered to be 8b/+ instead of 8b+.

f) La Mare del Tano is now considered to be 8b rather than 8a+.

Fígols a L'Ombra

The route Mascle Sensible (Page 408 in Lleida Climbs 3) is actually 8a+/b, rather than the 8b+/c grade in the guide. Thanks to Pol Ortiz for this information. 

Camarasa Parking — December 2021

 

The following is an update to our post regarding parking areas for many sectors in Camarasa (first published in November 2020).

1) Sectors 1-15 (+22) in Lleida Climbs 3:

It is now looking increasingly likely that the metal barrier gate at the start of the access road to the Central Hidroelèctrica de Camarasa is a permanent fixture. This means that the advice given in our original post still stands: the parking areas P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs 3 are no longer available and walking from the parking area at the head of the access road (east side of the Pont del Pastor Bridge on the C13) is now the only option.

However, due to the recent increase in popularity of Camarasa with non-climbers (walkers, rafters, etc.) this parking area is frequently full from early morning onwards, particularly at weekends and during holiday periods. In response to this, the local council has created a larger parking area on the right-hand side of the road, approximately 350m after the Pont del Pastor road-bridge. Of course, that means even more walking…

2) Sector 17 (Crestes de Conill-North) Lleida Climbs 3:

The locked metal barrier gate at the start of the un-surfaced track at the western end of the Pont del Pastor road-bridge appears to be a permanent fixture. One must now park at either of the aforementioned locations (see above) and walk the track (1.1km) to the previous P6 parking area. Alternatively, follow the approach for Crestes de Conill-South and continue rightwards along a well-marked footpath from there.

3) Sectors 18-21 in Lleida Climbs 3:

The previously mentioned closures of the limited parking areas on the dam wall still stand. Please use the P7 parking areas (after the second tunnel) specified in Lleida Climbs 3. If these are full, drive back down to the new parking area 350m north of the Pont del Pastor road-bridge and walk up the C13 to the start of the access footpaths. Note 1: there are no pavements on the C13 so great care is needed with regard to passing vehicles. Note 2: there are actually a limited number of places a little further up the road from the main parking area, which will reduce your walking time marginally.

Camarasa Parking

1) This affects sectors El Solarium, La Cova de L'Escaleta, El Túnel and Mongetae. In Lleida Climbs 3 we mention "limited parking" on the dam wall for these four sectors. However, there is now a 'no parking' signpost in this 3 car slot and fines are being handed out for offenders. The only option now remains the main parking areas beyond the second tunnel.

2) Due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the Hydroelectric plant has been temporarily gated, meaning the parking areas (P1 to P4 in Lleida Climbs) for all the lower sectors — Marcant Estil, La Pera, Fashion, La Selva, etc., etc., are currently unavailable. The only option now is to park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way.

3) Sector Crestes de Conill North: due to the current Covid 19 crisis (?) the access road leading to the parking area for this sector (P6 in Lleida Climbs 3) is temporarily gated. One can either park on the bend on the eastern side of the Pont de Pastor road bridge and walk the rest of the way or (better) use the parking area for Crestes de Conill South and approach from there.

Note: In addition to the above notifications, Camarasa seems to have recently become extremely popular with none-climbing visitors, meaning parking places rapidly fill up at weekends and bank holidays.

GPS Coordinates

A recent conversation with a climber who was visiting Lleida for the first time, alerted us to the possible pitfalls of relying purely on the GPS coordinates we provide in the sector approach descriptions.
It seems that on two occasions his Satnav device took him and his friend to completely the wrong place. The first time this happened he was certain that the coordinates we gave in the guidebook were faulty, but when it happened again at a different sector he decided to investigate. It turned out that the mapping software he had installed on his Satnav was for driving only (on recognized roads) and as both the sector parking areas he had failed to reach involved 'off-road' driving on forestry tracks, the device didn't have a clue what to do. In fact, it took them to the nearest point on a surfaced road and then delivered the 'you have reached your destination' message.
The moral of this story is that you should not only make sure your Satnav device is loaded with the appropriate mapping software, but also make sure to read the approach descriptions and consult the physical maps in the guidebook!

Perles — Socud.com

The route Socud.com (sector Roc d'en Betriu in Perles), listed as a project in Lleida Climbs 3, has been climbed by Dani Andrada at a grade of 8a. It may have been done before...

Abella de La Conca — Error

Our Eagle-eyed correspondent, Albert Cortés, has spotted an error in the topo for the right-hand side of Sector Església (page 280 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition). Route number 41 is, in fact, 'Entrepans' (3) and number 42 is 'El 6c más duro del Mundo' (7b), not the other way around as we show it in the guide. Thanks Albert!

Castellassos (Coll de Nargó) — update

A new climb has been equipped on the right-hand side of sector Castellassos in Coll de Nargó (pages 360-361 in Lleida Climbs 3rd. edition).
The route starts as for 'Nemon' then goes right after a few metres. No name is available yet but a provisional grade of 7b+ has been suggested.

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.

Fígols a L'Ombra — Update

Two new climbs have been added to the far right-hand side of sector 'Fígols a L'Ombra' in Fígols (pages 408-409 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).
No names are available for these climbs at the moment but both are graded 6b+.
Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for this information.

Contrafort de Rumbau — Update

Here is an updated topo for the 'Pitos' area of Contrafort de Rumbau in Oliana (Page 338 in Lleida Climbs 3rd edition).

Thanks to Joan Bigarret 'Biga' for the information.

Lleida Climbs 3 now available!!!

The third edition of our Lleida Climbs guidebook is now available to for purchase both in Spain and the UK. The new guide is not just a minor update, it is packed full of new sectors and new routes!
 

Fígols - Sector Xapat: new approach info

New access restrictions affect the approach to Sector Xapat. In the current edition of Lleida Climbs we stated that those with 4x4 vehicles could drive all the way up the 'Camí de Narieda' track, from the L-401 road right to a parking area within 5 minutes of the sector. Unfortunately a 'no access for unauthorized vehicles' signpost has recently been placed right at the start of the track. Apparently some local climbers ignore the signpost and continue to drive to the crag... of course, we cannot condone this...
For those who don't wish to flout the rules, walking up the track is long (4km!) but not particularly arduous, and quite pleasant. A reasonable pace should see you at the lower of the two crags comprising the sector (Indian Summer) in 50-55 minutes.
There have also been access changes to the alternative approach to the sector from the north: the owners of 'La Serra' farmstead, through which the approach described in Lleida Climbs goes, have erected a large metal gate barring the way and made it clear they do not wish people passing through their property. Fortunately, it is possible to re-join the original path by using the track which forks rightward from the main track some 1.3km after the village of Romanins (and 600m before the the metal gate barring access to La Serra). Follow the track past farm buildings (no signposts) to reach the streambed. Here, at a sharp right-hand bend (just before reaching the Font de Codonyes) a path marked by a large cairn cuts off to the left. Follow the the path uphill past numerous cairns to wear it levels out, and then continue until reaching the original approach at the Figols / Font de Cordonyes signpost. Turn right and follow the original approach information as described in Lleida Climbs. The approach time is slightly longer than the original way (30-35 minutes) and the lack of parking areas near the start of the farm track (their are better places several hundred metres lower down) will add a few minutes more.
Note: Since the publication of Lleida Climbs second edition in 2013, the number of climbs in Sector Xapat has almost doubled. Revised topos will be published in the next edition of Lleida Climbs (planned for Autumn 2019 release) but in the meantime info can be found in the bar 'El Portal' in Organyà.

'Eclipse' — Paret de l'Os

The line shown in Lleida Climbs (second edition) for the route 'Eclipse' (page 97) is actually a direct variation known as "Variant Boira". This is considerably harder than Eclipse 'original' (7a if done completely free) but is fully equipped with parabolts and rappel stations and is possible to ascend at V+ if a number of bolts are used for direct aid. Consult the topo below with pitch grades for the "Variant Boira".

Tres Ponts — route closures

UK climber Steve Crowe (a regular visitor to Catalunya) has informed us that, due to the presence of a rare species of plant, three of the classic hard routes in Tres Ponts have been 'banned' by the authorities. These are: El Segre (8a), Els Inconformistes (8a+) and L'Alternativa (8a+).
Apparently "Signs at the crag detail the plant species and location. Bolts and perma-draws still in-situ for now."
If practices employed at Camarasa a few years ago (when two complete sectors were stripped of hangers and the bolt-studs hammered into the rock because of the presence of Petrocoptis Montsicciana) it seems likely that the affected routes in Tres Ponts will soon be stripped...

Abella Climb

Watch Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, and James Pearson gathered together this summer in Abella de la Conca (Spain) for a climbing festival organized with Edelrid & Vaude. This recently rediscovered area has amazing limestone and offers all year round climbing for all abilities.  In one week they did ten first ascents from 7b+ to 8c and bolted seven new 50m lines from 7a to 8c+. They also tried four projects (8c+/9a?) but for these, as Enzo Oddo puts it…they’ll have to come back!!

The new web site http://www.abellaclimb.com will give you more information about this crag and has online topos of the new sectors.

http://vimeo.com/m/102024234

Este verano Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Klemen Bečan, y James Pearson han escalado en el guapísimo catalán pueblo de Abella de la Conca durante la trobadada organizada con Edelrid & Vaude . En esta zona se puede escalar todo el ano sobre una roca tipo Verdon. Dentro una semana han hecho las primeras ascensiones de 10 vias incluso dos 8c, y equipado 7 nuevas vías brutales de 50m de 7a hasta 8c+. Han probado también 4 proyectos (8c+/9a?) pero para estos como Enzo Oddo lo dice al final…hay que volver!!!

La nueva pagina web http://www.abellaclimb.com os permite buscar más información y topos para los nuevos sectores.

http://vimeo.com/m/102024234

Worn Lower-offs!!!

Yesterday we replaced a dangerously worn lower-off at the top of Viagra (6b+) and Michumi (6a+) at La Selva in Camarasa (Page 63 in Lleida Climbs 2).

Even though the karabiner on the old lower-off unit was halfway worn through (see picture) it seems that people have been happily using it until very recently. This is madness!

These two routes are extremely popular and it's likely that the karabiner was also regularly used as part of top-rope setups — a practice that should be avoided at all costs.

As we stress in the introduction to the guidebook, climbing in Catalunya is not a regulated activity. There is absolutely no structure in place to inspect or maintain in-situ gear. What this means in practice is that when trusting your life to in-situ bolts and lower-offs you must use your own judgement as to their dependability. If a lower-off looks dangerously worn (such as this one) then leave one of your own karabiners behind — it's a small price to pay for peace of mind!

Be safe out there!

Vilanova de Meià — new multi-pitch route

David Tarragó has sent us details about a new multi-pitch climb on Roca dels Arcs in Vilanova de Meià, equipped by himself and Paula Revoil last year.
The route Via Paula/Tarragó is 205m long and features sustained climbing up to 7b+/7c, making it probably the most difficult multi-pitch climb in the entire zone. It is also reportedly excellent!

The section of cliff on which the route lies is not covered in the Lleida Climbs guidebooks. The route lies approximately 200m right of Papisuca (page 227 in Lleida Climbs 2).