Tuesday, 16 December 2014

El Diedre 8b — Climbed by Klemen Becan!

The brilliant Slovenian climber Klemen Becan has finally made the first redpoint ascent of El Diedre (8b) on sector Mur Blau in Abella de la Conca.

Although 8b is not exactly considered 'cutting edge' by today's standards, El Diedre is something rather different. This 50m pitch follows a superb line on barely vertical rock, featuring a 35m 7b+ 'warm-up' to a chain, followed by a virtually hold-less and desperately technical 15m bridging groove to the top.

Klemen originally tried the route in 2007 together with Dani Andrada, and both got very close to success, only to be thwarted by the final few tenuous moves. Others have tried since, including Britain's Steve McClure, who came agonizingly close to the on-sight in 2013.

Klemen's ascent comes the day after he climbed the 50m power and stamina fest Mind Control (8c+) in Oliana, and is all the more impressive for that!

Klemen Becan on the FFA of El Diedre (8b) in Abella de la Conca.

Klemen Becan on the FFA of El Diedre (8b) in Abella de la Conca.

Dani Andrada attempting El Diedre in 2007, showing the extremely technical nature of the moves in the final groove.